For some, the trip to Speyer started at the crack of dawn in Northgate car park where 15 or so bleary-eyed Cicestrians boarded a minibus for Heathrow. From Terminal 2 it was a short flight to Frankfurt, and then a bus down the autobahn to Speyer. Others took different routes. But by late afternoon of Friday 29 November we had all arrived.

For our first evening, our hosts arranged a wonderful welcome dinner at Haus Trinitatis on Johannes Strasse in the city centre. Over an excellent buffet meal and free-flowing wine, we were able to get to renew acquaintanceships and make new friends. So as to talk to as many people as possible, our German friends switched tables every now and again at the sound of Matthias Nowack’s vigorously rung cowbell. Deputy Mayor Monika Kabs gave some welcoming remarks, and our own Mayor Sarah Quail thanked her in reply. It was a great start to the weekend, and there was still time to stroll through the colourfully-lit Weihnachtsmarkt on our way back to our various accommodations.

The following morning, we reconvened in the 18th century Rathaus (Town Hall), covered in scaffolding on the outside but looking very stately on the inside, for a joint reception with a visiting Friends group from Italy. The Friends of Speyer from Ravenna, with which Chichester is also of course twinned, had a Christmas stall on the ground floor. Monica Kabs and Sarah Quail again spoke warmly of the links between Speyer and Chichester, and Graziella Graziani did so for Ravenna. The interpreter, juggling between English, Italian and German, was kept on her toes. 

Speyer Wine Font

Vice-Chair of the Friends of Chichester, Petra Exner-Tekampe, presented Sarah with the unlikely gift of a football, a symbol of a proposed sports event between Chichester and Speyer in 2026. It is hoped that Ravenna and Chartres could join later making it a four-cities event. It would encourage greater involvement in the twinning movement, particularly with younger members of the communities. Watch this space! 

Afterwards we were served sparkling wine and pretzels, that most famous of German snacks, an effigy of which is carved into the doorway of the Dom.  

As our last day in Speyer became night, we made our way through the Weihnachtsmarkt to the Dreifaltigkeitskirche (Trinity Church) to say our goodbyes. There were yet more Christmas eateries and bars in the churchyard, but by special arrangement we were able to have an out-of-hours gathering inside the church – much to everyone’s relief as by now it was very cold. Drinks and nibbles were once again on offer, as well as a scholarly talk, by Helmut Damian, about the building’s history.

Baroque in style, the church was built in the early 1700s following the and still has its original wooden galleries and extensive panel paintings. It was modelled on Its reredos is particularly elaborate and that is where we chose to have a group photo. Matthias Nowack spoke on behalf of the Friends of Chichester, and Sarah Quail replied on behalf of the Friends of Speyer, thanking our hosts for their wonderful hospitality. We have invited the Friends of Chichester to visit us from 23-26 August this year, so the planning starts now!