Following Saturday morning’s reception, a large contingent of us gathered in front of the Rathaus for the start of a tour of the city centre. Sigrun, our guide, started off by giving us a condensed history, wielding a two-metre folding ruler which conveniently split the epochs into manageable ‘10cm’ chunks. After that, we walked alongside the vibrant Weihnachtsmarkt (Christmas Market) which runs the length of Maximilianstrasse from the Altpörtal (Old Gate) to the Dom (cathedral), pausing to admire the Jakobspilger (St James Pilgrim) statue, forever on his way to Santiago de Campostela.
Soon we reached the majestic, splendidly isolated Dom – the largest extant Romanesque building in Europe. Founded in 1030 (so a big anniversary coming up in five years’ time), Sigrun explained its long and complicated history as we walked around the perimeter. The following day another guide, Bastian, took us inside, exploring the knave, the crypt with the tombs of the Holy Roman emperors and German royalty, and then up to the huge Emperor’s Hall above the western entrance. Here, nine immense, laboriously restored frescoes by Johann von Schraudolpha are displayed. Finally, some of us climbed yet more steps to the top of the southwest-facing tower to be rewarded with a wonderful view of the city as the sun set.
But back to Saturday… After visiting the Dom, Sigrun walked us to the Judenhof (Jewish Courtyard), the history of which dates back almost as far as the Dom. The medieval remains include a ‘mikvah’, or subterranean baths, which against the odds have survived to the present day.